One of the most interesting and unknown part of the Paris region which is ile de France. In this article I will tell some of the stories through my student life, my exercise journey by going back in times. Let me take you by sharing about a story about a man whose life is changing like never before! There are milestones and steps we achieve everyday. In this article you will find some of them. Let’s go to explore Provins and its surroundings!
Provins is an UNESCO heritage site about an hour drive from Paris in the Seine-et-Marne department. When I moved in the area in 2014, I couldn’t get enough of visiting the old town and contemplating its fortifications and architecture. When I visit my mum and step dad I sometimes go for a ride or take the bus going through the countryside as far as the eyes can see to get to Provins. As soon as I can see on the way the medieval hight town and its fortifications. This fills with joy and start to contemplate the architecture. I always contemplate like my first time seeing it in 2012.
The highest spot is the Cesar Tower overlooking the Town and its surrounding scenery miles away. My eyes keep looking at it at almost every moment. Telling myself the underrating of Provins is a shame but to stroll its historic mews and its stunning architecture again and again. For me it’s worth writing this article to show its history and my experience.
Many international tourists visit the Town every year due to its relative proximity to Paris and Disneyland. It’s easy access from Disneyland via the Bus (line 50) and by train from Paris Gare de L’est. The Provins area belong to a wider region called Brie. Brie is not only the name of my favourite cheese. It’s also a region named for its quality factors making the products quality unique to an area. Such as the soil composition, topography, climate, altitude… Many factors influence the taste and quality of certain products. Terroirs as we call them are areas with unique aspects. The Brie region stretches from the Seine et Marne to the surrounding departments. Making different flavours and types Brie. The Brie de Meaux which is a strong one is the most famous from all flavours. You can also find the Brie de Melun.
My first time there in 2012 attracted my curiosity and sparked excitement within me. Walking there was like travelling back in time as most of its ancient architecture is standing for centuries.
This part of the ile de France region got many treasures that I will reveal to you some of them along my adventures.
Fulfilling encounter to learn about history
The earliest human settlements date back from the palaeolithic era. The area will thrive and become one of the major crossroad during the Roman era. Provins is however not a great known town in France, but its history is rich and interesting. Back in the days during my brief studies in tourism, we had to make our own research about our place’s history. I reached out to the Maison-Rouge’s town hall and put me in relation with one of the village’s former Mayor.
The old man was described to me as an encyclopaedia of knowledge.
I was invaded by excitement by the idea of meeting such a knowledgeable person at history and looked forward to learn as many things possible.
We convened a meet up at his residence and I felt quite nervous in the idea of going at a stranger’s. When I knocked the door his wife opened it for me. She welcomed me and introduced me to her husband. She and told me in a low voice “He is a mountain of knowledge and hope you’ll learn a lot to meet your expectations”. The former mayor explained me in many details the history of the village which is also related to Provins. From the Roman period to the second world war and how the Region shifted into how we know it today.
He also shared with me his personal family memories passed to him from his ancestors from the 1870-1871 Franco-Prussian war. How his grand-grand father had to flee by train with his army unit.
The most interesting part of the conversation was his personal stories, anecdotes and experience throughout his life as a kid during world war II. From the Nazi invasion to the liberation by the allies. He described me the proud German army taking over with scout-cars. Seeing German airplanes flying over him while playing in an abandoned farm. The story of American soldiers killed while pushing back the enemy further and further during the liberation of the village. How a bullet slightly touched and nearly shot a woman on bicycle. A woman known to had an affair with a Nazi soldier during the occupation. And he also shared about his life as a soldier during the Algerian War (1954-1962).
That was one of the greatest and fulfilling conversation I’ve ever had!
This ignited in me to learn more and more about history in general. A real thirst of getting more and more knowledge emerged. As we move on in this article, some of the historic aspect below will be based on this amazing and fruitful conversation. This by far exceeded my expectations!
My experience of living there taught me a lot and during my trip there from London I still learn new things about the area.
Roman era origins
Provins has a closed proximity with the Champagne-Ardenne’s Region known for its vineyards. Vineyards covered up the landscape back in this period. Provins is a crossroad of Regional corridor. One from Troyes to Soissons and the other on towards Sens further to the south.
My family’s house is on this former crossroad in a typical French village whose name is Maison-Rouge with its Bakery, Church, Town hall and its war memorial. Maison-Rouge located at the North West of Provins. The name Maison-Rouge means Red house in English and its origin is the the Roman era. Back in Roman times a relay spot or an inn made of red bricks ounce stood there. Hence the name of it! Moreover there’s a street called “The Roman pathway’s street” where my family’s house is.
My exploration back in Roman times
Prior my next visit at my Mum I was looking for countryside pathways to go to run along at. I surprisingly learned with joy and curiosity about Gallo-Roman archaeological remains! Without questioning myself that my running route will aim to explore these spots!
On the day of the running once putting my shoes on and tied my laces I felt a deep sense of determination and excitement. Why? Because that would be my very first time running in the middle of nowhere in the wild. Running through cornfields and fields of wheats is so relaxing while listening to good music. So caught and hypnotized by the scenery that It led me to lose my earphones on the way. My first reaction in that case is to figure out how, instead of reacting emotionally which I used to do before my self improvement journey. Couldn’t find them anymore and told myself if I find them on my way back it would be good. Otherwise I will buy new ones and the fact of loosing them didn’t disturb my inner peace.
I’ve learned how to live the present moment and taking things as they are in whichever way.
I reminded myself of embracing challenges whatever they might me. You will tell me loosing earphones is an insignificant challenge. But we often react with anger on the moment it happens. My no reaction made the difference in continuing in enjoying the run. Approaching more and more from my goal as I’m crossing a small hamlet through its farms and started to notice houses and the top of the water tower in the background.
My goal is near as I’m few more meters away from Chateaubleau.
The old Gallo-Roman Amphitheatre
Riobe is the former name of Chateaubleau back in these times and the very first construction on my way as I reached the village is the ruins of the Amphitheatre! Took time for myself having a break by starting the exploration. I took a breath and sat down on the steps of the Amphitheatre. I imagined myself back in antiquity attending to a show. While I was looking all around me at the scenery I reminded and imagined me looking at vineyards all around. I reminded
Every time I visit such a place imagination and inspiration come to me
Curiosity is always somewhere in my mind leading me to question about How people who ounce stood where I’m standing right now lived. What kind of show and performance could be viewed here. Thinking about the laughers and joy of the ancient people. This was a full immersion for me in the 2nd Century when this jewel was constructed.
Indeed the area experienced a period of prosperity and the Amphitheatre is not merely in the middle of nowhere by itself. It’s possibly connected to a broader complex as remains of a sanctuary just few meters away as I continued my running.
The Gallo-Roman Sanctuary
As I move down the street at a lower pace inside the village to give me time to find my way. I start to notice a bunch of trees down a pathway alongside a cornfield. Allowing me to find a bit of shade as temperature is rising. I found a group of people sat down under these trees chatting. As I stop running my time for exploration begins and some of the people looked at me. Looking at me like “What does he wants?”. As I start to figure out these people are doing archaeology while finding my way in the middle of the small white brick walls. Imagining where corridors or perhaps ritual rooms could be situated. Trying to figure out the disposition of the construction and how they would perform rituals.
I had a brief exchange with one of the guys asking him if he was an archaeologist and he replied he was a student.
Heritage preservation
So these outstanding remains were first discovered in the middle of the 19th Century by a teacher and his students. They started to find coins, tiles, and all kind of forgotten antique objects. Following the first discoveries his descendants will carry on with what they have discovered. Until the creation of La Riobe association to carry out searches on the sites. Both sites are listed as historic monuments respectably in 1969 and 1983.
The local council community plans to develop these sites to benefit the public. By preserving the structures from all kind of deterioration and stabilising the ruins. Preservation is a priority first of all and then to create a specific route for visitors. Also setting up a contemporary structure to give back the amphitheatre to its original size. There’s no heritage preservation aims without education. Local authorities want to create a hub of initiation for archaeology as well.
My ride from Nangis to Provins
Since my self-improvement journey began by implementing a high-performance lifestyle my eager for exercise never fades. Even on holiday far from my daily routine I though the countryside would be a perfect scenery for a ride. So I’ve decided to dust off a bike from the garage to kick start heading to Nangis to Provins via Maison-Rouge and then coming back to the latter. The heat was on the road and hitting on my helmet while carrying a bottle of water.
Heading to my first stop which is the centre of Nangis taking a break in the shade of the trees feeling a light breeze on my face. Reminding myself memories from few years ago.
The castle of Nangis
My first visit of the area dates back from late 2017 during a freezing morning by walking on the crunching frosty ground. My look tuned immediately to the shape of the roof which sounded like a castle. Enjoying the magic of the morning sunlight reflection on the crystals of frost. As I moved closer it became crystal clear that yes! A Castle standing among trees and vegetation. While walking around I noticed this is not a merely castle in the middle of a town. This is in fact the Nangis town hall! Some of the other names are the Motte-Beauvoir or Beauvais Castle. The building was own by the son of King Philipp I as a lord. At the time of the hundred years war the purpose of the Castle was mainly for protection of the population of the lord’s domain.
Although the Castle suffered from severe damage during this period of history. Successive families will own the Castle until Louis de Brichanteau in 1507. Whose descendants will own the Castle until the French revolution. Where the Castle is sold and got two of the three buildings destroyed. The Castle is finally purchased by the town hall in 1859.
Walking toward the Church I could see the remains of the destroyed parts of the Castle on the square. With the war memorial standing and a small bridge leading to another square.
Saint Martin-et-Saint Magne Church
Dismounted and walking on the parking I pass by the 13th Century’s Church. For me there’s no visit to a place without stopping at places of worship. They are part of the heritage and this Church is listed historic monument since 1989.
My eyes are filled with interest and peace when visiting a place of worship. Whether a Church, Mosque, Temple… There are so many things in common between the different religions if we deeply learn about them.
The ramparts of Provins
As I hop on my bike in Nangis heading off to Provins the wind pushed me from the back. Carrying me to the next and most interesting town of the area. As I push myself to the top of the slopes I felt like a sense of being destined for more great things in my exercise journey. I felt proud of the distance I was making. I wouldn’t be able to do such distance few years ago.
The 25 meters high ramparts of Provins are the first thing we see. As mentioned at the beginning of the post I felt joy but I this time I felt more gratitude. Grateful for the ride I was performing and grateful for my sweaty forehead. But also grateful seeing the historic places while cycling giving me auditory and sensory experience. Hearing the chirping of the birds and the breeze pushing me forward.
Built between the 11th and 13th Century, the ramparts are still the gates of the medieval town. The upper town as we call is is still surrounded by 1.2 km long wall with towers all along. The Saint Jean’s Gate is one of the Gates still remaining today. You can’t miss it when coming from the tourist information centre leading you to the historic medieval town.
The upper town’s entrance
Stepping through the Gate and there you are! At first glance you see local’s habitations while you’re walking down the street. Then you can notice during your stroll a change of architectural style. Going through mews and narrow streets along restaurants and souvenir shops is just a magic experience. For people like me fan of history the upper town is a place I go over and over again!
Giving me a sense of peace and tranquillity. Leading my path to one of the main spot which is the Chatel square. Where you can see a perspective of the upper town with the Cesar tower (mentioned above) and the Saint-Quiriace collegiate Church (which I’ll talk about later) in the background. Without questions my direction is always off to that direction.
Caesar tower
Provins is situated in the former territory of the counts of champagne. The counts of Champagne were the rulers of the region from 950 to 1316. The Ceasar tower is a 12th Century watchtower which symbolised their power. Located on the top of a hill it also symbolized their domination and authority. This vaulted octagonal dungeon has also been used as a prison. During the hundred years war the English erected the wall around it.
You can enjoy of a panoramic view of the town and the landscape taken up with fields. Resurrected vineyards below the tower reminds us of the antique landscape of the area. You can see at other locations vineyard flourishing again. A kind of return to the origins is in operation in the area.
Medieval festival
Revive traditions is part of the local DNA. Every year Provins sees its annual medieval festival in the old town. Attracting thousand of visitors for a two days of fair, street shows, dances, parades on June every year. This is the biggest medieval fair in France! People have to get their middle ages outfits for free entry. From early morning to late in the evening you can meet local artisans where you can find local products promoting local traditions, food and games. So many stall we can choose from!
Of course local crafts and construction techniques are put in value. One of the main attraction is the Eagles and Falcons training show. You can regularly see Eagles or Falcons flying over you anytime. My experience there in this festival was funny as I was walking the middle of the crowd and could see comedians acting. By heading with my bike to one of the most interesting spot which is the Saint Collegiate Church. I remembered this is anecdote with a smile as I jumped back on my bike.
Saint Quiriace collegiate Church
The Church square is by the way one of the celebration spots during the festival. Entering the Church is like sensing a place frozen in times when feeling cool air from the slightly opened door. Leading to an unknown experience of discovering a place standing for centuries. There’s a commemorative plaque at the entrance mentioning the visit of King Charles VII for a mass in this place alongside Joan of Arc.
I always try to seek hidden parts when I visit such places. To learn more about where I’m stepping in where silence is a mark of respect. Observing specs of dust flying around showing the sunrays breaking through the tainted glass windows. Feeling the cool atmosphere and hearing whispers from other visitors. Realising this place is aside of the Ceasar tower on the highest spot visible miles around and from the same century of the latter. Making it unmissable from the landscape.
Personal insights
Living there for four years gave me some amazing insights and take aways. As a student it sparked inside me to consider tourism studies as I spent only weekends or holidays there. Giving me a break during my time off. Not without doing my homeworks and learning. Walking through the alleys and news in the middle of authentic architecture made me forget and took me away from challenging moments.
The lower town as we call it is in a kind of a curve with many other interesting places to see. And can’t mention them all here but the place I love the most is the Prieure Saint-Ayoul by the Saint Ayoul Church.
During the most challenging chapter in my life in this area between 2017 and 2018. I knocked the door to a structure at the place mentioned above helping young people to find a way out and support. Local missions as we call them are associations we can find in many cities and towns in France. Where I found reassurance, empathy and security from the people who had welcomed me. I’m feeling gratitude when I’m writing these lines because of the support they had provided me in all areas of my life after it had collapsed. They supported me to unleash my potential to rebuild myself as a man and securing a job. The most important support I could receive was mental health aspect with counselling sessions. Giving me confidence when I faced isolation.
Made me realised mental health is not to be taken for granted. Helping and reaching out people in need of emotional support slowly started to be ingrained in my nature. Feeling the need of sharing my experience and knowledge to inspire others to unleash their potential. I am grateful about what this chapter of my life had taught me and shaped the man I am today by sharing my experience. It’s my mission in this world to spread positivity and hope you enjoyed this post and see you in the next one!
